Michael Gardner - Alpinist, guide, big-mountain skier

Pioneering American big-mountain skier, mountain guide and climber Michael Gardner died October 7, 2024, while attempting an unclimbed route on the north face of 25,295-foot Jannu East in Nepal. He was 32.

Gardner was a second-generation Exum Guide. Born in Ridgway, Colorado, he spent his childhood often climbing with his father, George Gardner, who died from a solo climbing accident on Grand Teton when Michael was 16.

Among Gardner’s long list of accomplishments, including many first ascents and ski descents, was his ascent of Infinite Spur on Mount Foraker, in Denali National Park, Alaska, wearing ski boots and carrying skis in order to ski down. Gardner also competed on the World Pro Ski Tour for several years.

Gardner set numerous climbing speed records. “He was a true climber’s climber,” Gardner’s sponsor Arc’teryx noted in a social-media tribute.